Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Hong by Starlight June 30 (Eric)

I wanted to write about this experience as soon as it happened, but as mentioned in my update post, things kind of got in the way. This was one of those experiences that I will not be able to find the words to describe, and pictures will not do it justice. But I will do the best I can...

Hong by Starlight is an excursion run by a company called John Gray's Sea Canoes. The trip is designed to get you to experience the beauty and wonder of Phang Nga Bay. It had always been a dream of mine to see this part of Thailand, and the reality surpassed my expectations.

The staff themselves are very friendly and professional. It is another trip where the ratio of staff to customers is 1 to 2 at a minimum. I know this because each sea canoe (really a kayak) holds two passengers, and you have your own personal guide to paddle the canoe and point out the local flora and fauna and beauty that surrounded us at every paddle stroke. The sea canoe is the only way to really explore the limestone karstic islands of the region because it allows you to travel through the sea caves and literally end up in a hidden lagoon inside the island.

The trip through the cave was magical enough. Listening to bats and being immersed in near darkness in the middle of the day while drifting along on a kayak is indescribable. But once you emerge from the darkness of the cave into a lagoon that time has forgotten the serenity and peace of the moment truly overcomes you. A hushed awe surrounds every member of the trip, and you can't help but get caught up in the moment. In our first lagoon, we saw long-tailed macaques and mudskippers and enough beauty to inspire a hundred artists. Simply amazing.

We paddled to another hidden lagoon and listened to the sounds of bird song echoing off the karstic walls. It was surreal. This would have been plenty, but our boat picked up the canoes and took us to another lagoon to explore. Each lagoon is beautifully unique and special.

After dinner, was one of the experiences that I will have the most trouble describing adequately. It is after the sun sets that the tour gets its name because you get to experience the dimming lights over this bay followed by creating your own personal flower arrangement called a "Kratong" (which is a Thai tradition to mark the end of the rainy season). We took these Kratong back inside a sea cave to set afloat in the darkness and solitude. It was a transcendental experience. Anyway, I am trying to wrap this up, so as usual, I will close with woefully inadequate pictures...



Monday, July 4, 2016

Getting to the Heart of my Blogger's Block (Jenny)


Every time I've wanted to blog about our travel experiences, I read about something horrific happening in the world, and my thoughts dry up. How can I write about something that seems so unimportant after reading about the massacre at Pulse in Miami or the bombing in Turkey? How do I share my insights, although important to me because they are a part of me, when they are so insignificant compared with matters of life and death? Today I was finally ready to sit down and blog about Borneo when I read about the stabbing/shooting of a man headed to his mosque in Houston. As if that isn't bad enough, the article said that this is the THIRD incident in Houston. Really???!!!! Come on, People, we are better than this!

The strongest impression I have while traveling is that we are all human beings going through life's journey. Yes, there are differences between us, but the bottom line is that we are all human. Why isn't this enough to make us have respect for one another, to be OK with disagreeing with each other's ideas, without having to resort to hatred and violence? 

At the beginning of my teaching career, I worked with fifth graders. I remember creating a unit about sharks to teach the idea that people fear, and even hate, what they don't understand. I tied this unit into the need to educate oneself about matters that one does not understand. It was my hope that my students would grow up to ask questions and find answers and learn and be more accepting and understanding as a result.

Right now, we are in Malaysian Borneo. Malaysia is predominantly Muslim, and the celebration of Ramadan is happening as I type this. We've seen hundreds and hundreds of people traveling to be with their families to celebrate. They all seem very excited, and the atmosphere at the airport was one of festivity and eagerness. This reminded me so much of when Eric and I fly home to be with our families at Christmas. There was that same level of energy. As I looked at all the happy activity around me, it frustrated me that so many people out there lump all Muslims in with ISIS....or that any group gets lumped together with any kind of negativity.

We have seen very few Americans on our travels this time. Never once have I felt worried that I was out of place or in any kind of danger for being different. We have found most people to be extremely friendly, genuine, and helpful. Even when Eric threw up violently going through airport security in Kuala Lumpur, the agents were kind and sympathetic. Both of us thought for sure that they were going to quarantine Eric, but they just waved us through. When I made a feeble attempt to try to clean things up, they told me not to worry about it. I'm 100% sure that they were not happy about the situation, but I could see an understanding, an "another foreigner with traveler's stomach" look on their faces.

We also experienced some difficulty clearing immigration in Shanghai, China, but we were always treated very respectfully. I had only brought an electronic copy of our itinerary to show that we would be leaving Shanghai within the 144-hour limit. I did not realize that they required a paper copy. The problem was that the itinerary was on my gmail account, and gmail is banned in China, so I could not pull it up to print it out. Instead of detaining or deporting us, or even getting flustered with us, the agents worked from their end to try to help us. Thankfully, a college student heard our problem and shared her phone with us. It had a vpn on it which enabled us access to the itinerary.

The highlight of Shanghai for me was a morning spent in Fuxing Park, watching hundreds of people enjoying life through tai chi, or ballroom dancing, or water calligraphy, or kite flying, or sword dancing, or playing badminton....Hundreds of people were gathered in the park doing what they loved. It was simple. They did not get in each other's way, which you would think would happen with so many people. It was an area filled with joy. And this is a daily occurrence in Shanghai.

Today we spent an hour talking with the docent at the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center. At times I was disgusted with humanity for the way we treat the natural world, destroying it for profit or products that we really don't need. But even stronger was the sense of hope I felt. There are good people out there trying to make a difference. In fact, when I think about it, there are mostly good people out there. In our travels this is what we see, mostly the good.

In spite of theses times when too many lives have been hurt by violence, by political uncertainty, by corruption, I hope to hold onto the goodness I see and read about. And I hope when others encounter Eric and me, we leave a positive impression on them. Probably not those agents at the KL airport, but hopefully everyone else. Hopefully they see that we are not so different from them.

Sunday, July 3, 2016

Update (Eric)

I know we haven't posted in a while. We've had a few travel days, and I had a rough day yesterday emptying the contents of my stomach. This is going to be a short post updating our adventures with a few pictures, and then I will try to make time to write in more detail later. Also worth mentioning is the fact that I am writing this from a lodge at the edge of the Bornean jungle. It is quite peaceful and surreal, but also quite hot and humid. Anyway, an update...
  • Thursday June 30 (Hong by Starlight): I thought the trip to Phi Phi island was magical, but I can't recommend Hong by Starlight ran by the John Grey Sea Canoe Company enough. I will have difficulty expressing the experience in words, and pictures will not do it justice.
  • Friday July 1 (Travel Day 1): We left Phuket at "oh my God it's early" to head to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. We had a great time exploring the Kuala Lumpur Bird Park (thanks to George Sehn, my stepdad, for the recommendation). We had a wonderful dinner in an eight story mall (and I thought I had escaped hell) that turned out to not be so wonderful for me the next day. Further proving my point, that malls are evil. By the way, don't shy away from eating at restaurants in Asian malls just based on the experience above. You can actually find some amazing places to eat in these monstrous malls. The dish I ordered happened to have clams that did not agree with me. 
  • Saturday July 2 (Travel Day 2):  Another day where we got up at "oh dark thirty" to travel to Sandakan, Malaysia. (NOTE: skip a bit if stomach issue stories bother you) This travel day was purely awful for me. Even before leaving the hotel, I began to have stomach issues including an emergency stop at the bathroom while waiting for the taxi to take us to the airport. Once at the airport, my issues worsened, including emptying the contents of my stomach, not once, but twice as we passed through security. I was worried security might try to quarantine me, but instead, they were very nice and understanding. I think they took one look at me and realized, "oh, another foreigner who is having trouble adjusting to an Asian diet." But I think the explanation was just good old fashioned food poisoning (the questionable clams I mentioned earlier). (NOTE: you may start reading again if you skipped a bit). Anyway, we arrived safely to our lodge, the Sepilok Nature Resort, but because of my condition, we ended up taking it easy. I'm happy to report that the relaxation seemed to help. I'm up and about and we really enjoying our next day, which leads me to the next bullet...
  • Sunday July 3 (Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center): This was just the thing to cure me of my travel illness blues. As I mentioned, we are staying at the edge of a jungle. Also at the edge of this jungle is a nature preserve that specializes in raising orphaned orangutans until they are capable of surviving in the wild. After seeing several of these adorable animals, including a close encounter with two particularly mischievous youngsters, it could not help but make me feel better. The aforementioned youngsters will apparently steal cameras, hats, and sunglasses if you do not keep a close eye on them. 
  • And now pictures...